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Eating as a Community: The Hintonburg Supper Club

This year’s United Way Ottawa campaign asks the question, “What do you want your community to be?” Well, after some thought, I am not sure “what” I want my community to be beyond open-minded, generous, and entrepreneurial. But, I would like my community to enjoy good food, good company, and support local businesses. As Susan Murphy once blogged, we live in a number of spaces, most we choose, many we make. Food and culture associate well with one another. Ottawa, as a city, is quite the multicultural space where popular comfort foods are Vietnamese beef noodle soup (Pho) and Lebanese Chicken kebab (Shawarma).

I live on the border of two Ottawa neigbourhoods, Hintonburg and the Wellington Village. I spend a good amount of my time contributing to food communities on social networks. Imagine my glee when I discovered that the Hintonburg Community Association (HCA) revived the Hintonburg Supper Club. Its purpose, to support local business and promote enjoying good food with good company in a great neighborhood.

Unlike the supper clubs for which Wikipedia has a definition, this one is informal and does not involve a fixed dining establishment. Instead, Hintonburg Supper Club members visit a new restaurant each month. Its organizer, Carol Paschal, arranges the outing with a local restaurant and sends an e-mail to the club’s membership. Each outing regularly hosts 20 guests and the club always welcomes new faces.

Its January outing to Hino’s (1013 Wellington) was actually written up by columnist Dayanti Karunaratne in the Ottawa Citizen. According to the piece by Karunaratne, Hintonburg is “bounded by Scott Street, the Queensway, the O-Train tracks and Holland Avenue.”

To date, the Supper Club has visited many of the locally owned restaurants in the area, starting with a chicken and rib eatery that features home-style desserts, The Foolish Chicken (79 Holland Avenue). Since, it has dined at a vegetarian restaurant, The Table Restaurant (1230 Wellington Street W.); a Persian restaurant, Khatoon’s (991 Wellington Street W.); a Lebanese restaurant, Les Grillades (85 Holland Avenue); a Vietnamese, Cambodian, and Chinese noodles house, Phnom Penh (1100 Wellington Street W.); a Chilean street food style restaurant, Vina Del Mar (1079 Wellington Street W.); a Thai restaurant, Anna Fine Thai Cuisine (91 Holland Avenue); a contemporary Japanese restaurant, Hino’s (1013 Wellington Street W.); and an Ethopian restaurant, Habesha. Habesha recently moved downtown to Rideau Street (574).

The Hintonburg neighbourhood is also blessed with several great bistros, Absinthe (1208 Wellington Street W.), Canvas (65 Holland Avenue), and, my favourite restaurant in Ottawa, Allium (87 Holland Avenue). Allium would be where our Supper Club’s organizer took a picture of members for a piece in the October 8th issue of the Kitchissippi Times, a neighborhood newspaper. foodiePrints’ editor took that picture. Here are others from that evening:

Upon arrival at Allium, we were greeted with warm looking tables in a newly renovated dining room that featured wood accents and soft lights.

Allium’s New Dining Room

Like previous Supper Club dinners, our reservations were for early evening, just before sunset.

For appetizers, my end of the table ordered the scallops and fish cakes.

Scallops on Succotash Vegetables with Bacon

Think expertly seared scallops, served on seasonal vegetables, and strips of crisped double smoked bacon. The diner, who ordered the scallops, exclaimed that Allium puts just as much care into its appetizers as it does its mains. I agree wholeheartedly with the sentiment.

In fact, when most restaurants either close or let their sous chefs take over on Mondays, Allium’s Chef Arup Jana and his cooks hold “tapas nights.” Think of a meal consisting entirely of delectable small plates that show case more varieties of textures and flavours than most 3 course meals can permit. With the small plates priced to match, Allum’s tapas nights are rather popular.

Me, I ordered the fish cakes.

Smoked Fish Cakes, accompanied by a mango chutney and Onion Sour Cream

Panko crusted and topped with deep fried young scallions, mine was a great first course.

Here is Jenn’s main, that evening’s “surf and turf” ($30).

Surf and Turf with White Tuna ashimi, Pork Belly, and Beer Battered Perch

It should be noted that the Perch was sourced from the Whalesbone Sustainable Oyster and Fish Supply (I asked). It was line-caught from Lake Erie. To me, cooking up the Perch fillet in a flavourful beer batter and serving it with truffle fries and a house-made tartar sauce is a great way to do justice to sustainable fish.

Knowing how much I enjoy good sashimi, Jenn let me try her tuna. It was carefully cut, fresh, and served at what I feel is the optimal temperature to ensure great texture and flavour. The crisped pork belly was topped with a quail egg and plated over a smattering of jus.

Another diner, ordered the steak-frites ($23), the hallmark dish by which bistros are compared.

Flat Iron Steak-Frites Served with Hand Cut Fries and Smoked Chili Aioli

Allium compares well to any bistro in town. Served to the ordered done-ness, the steak looked medium rare and the fries, fresh, crispy, and not at all oily. Though, I still feel that Absinthe makes a better steak-frites. Many fellow Supper Club members agree with me.

I ordered the duck breast ($27).

Maple Duck Breast with Balsamic Apples, Roasted Fingerling Yukon Gold potatoes, Sauteed Mushrooms, and something slightly controversial

My potatoes were in no way powdery, fresh and sweet, cooked tender, and sauced in duck jus. The duck breast was perfectly cooked, the best I have ever eaten. Crusted, flavorful, and cooked medium rare, it was heavenly. Everyone who joined me in ordering the duck breast each took their first bite, paused to enjoy it, and sighed. My “perfect bites” paired mushroom, apple, and potatoes with duck, mixing earthy, sweet, acidic, and savoury flavours. The potato helped carry the flavours.

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foodiePrints at Schmoozefest ‘09

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